THE SCOPE OF GRAPES

PÉT-NAT, LOW ALCOHOL, SPARKLING TEA. IS THE TREND MOVING AWAY FROM TRADITIONAL WINES?

CL: Not at all (laughs). Especially here in Austria, southern Germany and eastern Switzerland, the aficionados of conventional delights are definitely out and about ... and they also happen to follow traditional producers and wineries. Of course, we can safely say that people come to the Burg or to Mathieu specifically to enjoy an outstanding wine - not so much to experiment with trends.
MM: Absolutely. Pét-Nat is more popular in Scandinavia and the USA - in part because the public there is more enthusiastic about natural wine. Here in Germany, I associate Pét-Nat with young people, and due to its sweetness, the trend is slowly moving in that direction here too. Non-alcoholic wine is a completely different topic. It plays no role at all in my day-to-day business life.
CL: It's similar for us. We follow the topic with interest and even offer sparkling tea in-house - but it's not something that's in great demand at the moment.


TO JUMP IN HERE: WHAT IS CURRENTLY IN HIGH DEMAND? WHICH WINE REGIONS ARE TRENDING?

Mathieu and Christian (at the same time): Burgundy! (laughing)
CL: Yes, the hype is still huge. In recent years, the region has repeatedly suffered from spring frost and hail, and the winegrowers have had lower yields.
MM: Some locations only make three barrels, so a bottle costs 2,000 to 3,000 euros.
CL: It's crazy. You have to imagine that the great Burgundies used to cost 40 Deutsche Mark. However, in addition to lower yields, the Asian market has also discovered wine. In Europe, wine cellars are traditionally well stocked - in China, for example, a lot is currently being built up.


IS BUILDING A WINE CELLAR MORE ABOUT DRINKING OR OWNING IT? IS WINE MORE OF A LUXURY ITEM OR AN INVESTMENT?

MM: Both. Wine as a beverage is on the rise. There is enormous demand and more and more producers. At the same time, rare wines are investment objects like watches and vehicles.
CL: Yes, an original case with numbered bottles has collector's value. Wine rarities are also highly valued in auction houses.
MM: Romanée-Conti is a good example, where only 5,000 bottles are produced annually for the whole world.


WITH THE INCREASED INTEREST, ARE THERE MORE WINE CONNOISSEURS TODAY, OR JUST MORE WINE DRINKERS?

MM: As more people drink, their knowledge increases. Just because we are sommeliers, we don't deny that our guests know what they're talking about.
CL: And it's not just about expertise. People allow themselves more pleasure today than before. Knowledge is one thing but experience is much more important.
MM: You can tell by looking in their eyes whether someone sees wine as a short fling or true love (laughs). But seriously: in a direct conversation, you can tell whether someone is really passionate about the subject. In the end, it doesn't matter: there is no right or wrong when it comes to enjoyment. It's about discovery. It's about joy.


SPEAKING OF DISCOVERY: AT THE BURG, THERE IS A LOT OF TASTING AND DISCUSSING AT THE YOUNG WINEMAKERS' MEETING: WHAT EXACTLY IS THE EVENT ABOUT?

CL: We have been holding this meeting for a long time, always at the beginning of the summer season. It came about because it's sometimes not easy for the younger generation to follow in their parents' footsteps. It often starts with classic training at Klosterneuburg or Geisenheim. The young winemakers will go to companies around the world, do internships across Europe, America or Australia. Then, in their mid-twenties, they come home to a family business where things are done the way they have always been done, traditionally. Our meeting is an established platform where we exchange ideas to see which techniques or varieties are good, or what could be changed or not. It's a great bonding experience.


IS WINE FUNDAMENTALLY SOMETHING THAT BRINGS PEOPLE TOGETHER? IS IT MORE THAN A JOB? MORE THAN A DRINK?

MM: Absolutely! Wine is emotion, discovery, a way of life. It stands for sociability. Wine has had a very strong influence on my view of people and the world. Not because of the buzz (laughs). I mean: when you sit together at the table with a glass of wine, you experience who a person really is. It is only through conversation and being together that you really get to know someone. You can exchange experiences and opinions. Of course you can do that without wine. But enjoying it together brings people together who might not otherwise meet.
CL: I agree. Wine is part of every culture. When you visit different wineries, you get to know the country and its people in a completely different way. You're not just a visitor, but connected by a shared enthusiasm. I find that wonderful and exciting.


WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO DRINK THE MOST? AND: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE MORE OFTEN IN THE GLASSES OF WINE LOVERS?

MM: I am a Pinot Noir fan through and through. I am actually obsessed (laughs). What I would like to see more often are red wine grapes from the Jura - with closed eyes, they taste like white wine. I recently rediscovered Savagnin, though I already knew it.
CL: At the moment I find Completer from Switzerland very exciting. The grape variety is similar to Chardonnay but a little sharper with more acidity. Grüner Veltliner is always nice: an Austrian classic, everyone's darling and tried and trusted. Drink more and grow more? In my opinion, we should drink more Chenin Blanc. It's a great wine that is rarely on people's radar.


CHRISTIAN LUCIAN
The love of gourmet food and fine grapes is in Christian's DNA. At 16, he had already achieved the young sommelier qualification. Today, he is the 3rd-generation manager of the Burg Hotel and also the chief guardian of the famous Burg wine cellar with more than 60,000 bottles and 4,500 items.

MATHIEU MERMELSTEIN
Mathieu is one of the most renowned sommeliers in Germany. He has worked both on land and the high seas. For eight years he was at Tantris, the Munich Michelin-starred restaurant and still looks after their wine cellar today. As a freelance sommelier since 222, Mathieu commutes between customers and wineries as an independent consultant.